Hand & Lock – Embroidery for fashion and the military
Already since 1767, the fashion and military embroidery atelier “Hand & Lock” has been known for its custom embellishments. We introduce you to this very special atelier, explore its origins and which famous designers they have already collaborated with. One very special collaboration – the one for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation celebration and her world-famous coronation gown – we take a closer look at.
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Hand & Lock – Embroidery for fashion and the military in London
In 2017, embroidery house “Hand & Lock” celebrated its 250th anniversary in London with a major celebratory event. With conferences, exhibitions, a gala dinner, and a charity auction, they honored the company and the centuries-old tradition of embroidery.
It all started when M. Hand, a French Flanders native, founded the company “M. Hand & Co” in London in 1767 to produce embroidery and lace for the military, the royal court, and other members of the nobility. He would soon go on to manufacture it himself. After over 200 years, M. Hand & Co merged with embroidery house, S. Lock Ltd., in 2001 to work together under the name “Hand & Lock” so as to produce hand and machine embroidery even more efficiently. In 1956, Stanley Lock took over the 1898 founded “Phipps & Co” embroidery house set up by C.E. Phipps, where he’d been working as a talented embroiderer during the 1950s.
“Hand & Lock”, an English company with an international appeal
After the merger, “Hand & Lock” expanded its existing relationships with renowned couturiers in Europe. The high-quality hand embroidery remained a hallmark for many fashion designers such as Dior, Mary Katrantzou, Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell, but also for church dignitaries and textile furnishings, and even for uniforms for His Majesty’s Royal Armed Forces.Sir Hardy Amies (1909-2003), a designer who supplied Queen Elizabeth II, amongst others, for many years, used the unique embroidery designs for his unusual upper-class dresses. Hand & Lock worked particularly closely with fashion designer, Sir Norman Hartnell (1901-1979), who dressed the ladies of the court, the Queen Mother and her daughter Queen Elizabeth II, as well as Princesses Anne and Diana:
„After the sudden early death of her father in February 1952, Elizabeth transitioned from Princess to Queen. Norman Hartnell was commissioned to design and create a dress for the official ceremony the following June. In his biography, he described how the Queen insisted that Britain and all members of the Commonwealth should be represented. Hartnell integrated the emblems of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales as well as flowers of the Commonwealth countries. The richly embroidered, voluminous dress signaled the arrival of a queen who would faithfully represent and preside over all of her subjects.“
Hand & Lock also embroidered for film and theatre costume departments (such as The Lion King), wedding dresses, and of course, Michael Jackson’s tailcoat. No matter whether a small family crest, a logo or gold embellished badge, every commission received the same attention to detail.
The path towards modernity
Hand & Lock also intentionally focused on modern machine embroidery. The main advantages of machine embroidery for both designer and consumer are unlimited color choices, less complex color management and fewer human errors. The Swedish firm “Coloreel” developed a device that was equipped with just one spool of white yarn and a series of ink cartridges. When combined with a knitting machine, the thread is precisely dyed during the embroidery process with a wide range of colors as required. It made light to dark ombré gradients possible with one or more colors. The environmental impact is significantly lower than with traditional dyeing processes.
The special, the typical
Flowers played a huge part in the pattern choices of “Hand & Lock” embroidery. Flowers are symbols of affection, and they’re inextricably linked to feminine beauty.The extravagant dresses of Marie Antoinette, Queen Victoria’s wedding dress with her orange blossom wreath, and Christian Dior’s New Look collection are examples of feminine floral fashion. Floral motifs still play a big part in today’s fashion, where complex embroidery is achieved with sophisticated digital machines. Because hand embroidery is very costly, the craft is largely only possible for haute couture models now. The shapes, textures and overall look of the flowers require stitching techniques that have evolved over many years. There is the “Spider Web Rose”, a round stitch to create the shape of a rose, “Buttonhole Stitch”, a loop stitch for creating petals, and the “Chain Stitch” for vines and stems, usually embroidered with a tambour hook, and so many more.
“Hand & Lock” as a school
Today, “Hand & Lock,” just like “Maison Lesage” in Paris, is famous for passing on the art of embroidery, especially hand embroidery, on to the next generation. Hand & Lock founded a “School of Embroidery” that offers embroidery courses and workshops in London and around the world. The tambour beading course in London, Sydney and Chicago is particularly popular. Tambour beading This is the haute couture embroidery art that produces ravishing but labor-intensive beaded dresses, and the school teaches accuracy but also time efficiency. The students study how to handle different materials and embroidery techniques with a tambour hook.Princess Diana of Wales’ wedding dress is a good example:
„The iconic dress was designed by previously rather unknown designers, married couple Elizabeth and David Emanuel. ... The ivory silk taffeta design featured a large crinoline, a soft scooped neckline, oversized puffed sleeves, a meringue and a 25-foot train. The bodice was decorated with antique handmade lace that had once belonged to Queen Mary, and the whole dress was embroidered with thousands of sequins and over 10,000 beads. […]
S. Lock & Co (now Hand & Lock) was commissioned to do the labor-intensive and complex embroidery on the 139 meters of tulle that made up the veil.“
The “Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery”
Since 2001, there has been an annual embroidery competition where participants can compete for the “Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery.” This competition took on an extra special meaning during the coronavirus pandemic. At the time, Hand & Lock encouraged lots of people to take up this creative hobby. The University College London even spoke of the medical benefits of artistic hobbies. In 2020, their study showed that artistic activities „lower inflammation and stress hormones“ and help reduce the risk of dementia. Hand & Lock presented many of the works created by participants in the competition at exhibitions.
Dedication
To celebrate the company‘s 250th anniversary in 2017, Hand & Lock had 13 special bags designed by British luxury accessory companies. Amongst the designers were Agnes B, Alfie Douglas, Aspinal of London, Asprey, BVS Design, Globe Trotter, House of Holland, Jill Haber, Lost Property of London, Lulu Guinness, Patrick Cox, The Cambridge Satchel Company, and Vivienne Westwood. “The Embellished Handbags” were exhibited in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London all year and in December were auctioned off by Sotherby’s. The money raised at auction, some £20,000, went to the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) and the Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery to support and care for young artisans.For 2023, the “Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery” is already advertising for 4 different categories encompassing embroidery, textile, interior and accessory design as well as wearable fashion. The first prize in every category will receive 4,000 USD, plus a framed, hand-embroidered commemorative plaque made by Hand & Lock‘s expert artisans, a free one-year membership to The Textile Institute, a weekend course at Hand & Lock and an internship at Hand & Lock. The award receives hundreds of entries from fashion students and talented embroiderers from around the world.But it’s never too late to try it out for yourself!
Für 2023 ist der „Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery“ bereits in 4 Kategorien (Sticken, Textil-, Interior- und Accessoire-Design sowie Mode-Design) ausgeschrieben. Der erste Preis in jeder Kategorie bekommt 4.000 USD, dazu eine gerahmte, handgestickte Gedenkplakette, hergestellt von den erfahrenen Handwerkern von Hand & Lock, eine kostenlose einjährige Mitgliedschaft bei The Textile Institute, einen Wochenendkurs bei Hand & Lock und ein Praktikum bei Hand & Lock.Mittlerweile erhält der Preis Hunderte von Einsendungen von Modestudenten und talentierten Stickern aus der ganzen Welt.Aber es ist nie zu spät!
